Cover image credit: Marina Raphael
Pause and put down the Fendi baguette. Whether you’re Mary Poppins in favour of a bottomless pit tote, essentials only with a minute Jacquemus, or bold and boujee like Kris Jenner’s Birkin; bag lovers look no further.
What makes a signature bag sustainable?
There are a myriad of environmental, social and governance factors to consider when on the hunt for a sustainable bag; here are a some key considerations.
Firstly – the supply chain. A brand is only as strong as its weakest link. Where possible, do your research. Has the company vetted and audited their supply chain? Do they publish the results on their website and in reports? They may also use third party blockchain technology partners or digital passports to enhance the traceability and transparency of their production processes.
Within the supply chain, we need to consider the direct and indirect environmental impact of operations. That includes everything from the scope 1-3 greenhouse gas emissions, through to the water footprint and use of hazardous chemicals in all manufacturing facilities.
From a social perspective, have the workers at each individual node of the supply chain been paid a living wage? Have their suppliers followed the correct Codes of Conduct to enshrine their human rights, health and safety standards and access to collective bargaining?
Next, consider the materials used. Are they verified and certified? This shouldn’t apply only to the outer shell material but also linings and decorative features including zips, tags and embellishments.
The exponential rise of fabric innovations with regenerative material properties represents a huge opportunity for market disruption in this accessory category. The high profile use of myceclium based leather alternatives like Mylo™️ by Bolt Threads for Stella McCartney and MycoWorks for French fashion house Hermès serve as noteworthy examples.
Opting in or out of leather bags, is very much a personal preference. The Textile Exchange has created a Responsible Leather Assessment Tool to help the fashion industry work to better standards and many brands are now only selecting tanneries with strong environmental management practices that do not use metals and hazardous chemicals from the tanning process. To learn more about chrome and vegetable leather tanning, watch this video. The debate about the true impact of plant and plastic material hybrids wages on. Some argue that faux leather, largely derived from PVC has its environmental drawbacks too. It has been recently revealed ‘sustainable’ alternatives like Desserto Cactus leather were found to contain five restricted chemical substances.
If you would like to compare the impact of various bag materials and learn more about which certifications to look for, use the Farfetch Fashion Footprint Tool powered by IOF.earth.
A final element to consider for your next handbag purchase, is reviewing the company itself. What is the organisation’s sustainability strategy and do they have a roadmap with targets to achieve this? Have they committed to responsible purchasing practices where they guarantee to pay their suppliers? Are there circular initiatives in place to encourage the longevity of the bag in question? Think upcycling, repair services and the use of offcut textiles to craft new pieces.
Do they communicate authentically and honestly to their customers about the properties of their products? Or, have they been accused of greenwashing? For example, the popular brand Matt & Nat was warned by the UK Advertising Standards Authority in 2019 for over exaggerating its use of recycled materials.
If you are still deliberating whether to buy new or second-hand – consider the return on investment of a designer vintage-staple piece purchased from the likes of Vestiaire Collective or Ebay. (Be sure to check for a certificate of authentication as so many counterfeits exist!) Leading rental platforms such as My Wardrobe HQ also have a stellar line up of pre-loved bags that are available to purchase at a fraction of the original price.
Give yourself permission to buy something new, if it’s made to last. The economics of cost per wear can help justify buying a staple piece, especially when there are a few extra 0’s on the price tag. Rationalise the purchase as an art investment! According to a new study by Art Market Research (AMR), designer bags from Hermès, Chanel and Louis Vuitton match the investment potential of classic cars, rare whiskies and paintings. Some designs have also experienced a valuation spike of an average of 83% in the last ten years.
In conversation with Marina Raphael – Timeless, luxury designs with purpose
From a design perspective, how can creators transform their dreams of ethical arm candy into reality? Luxury handbag designer Marina Raphael has fashioned some of the most exquisite pieces in the sector.
Quality and craftsmanship are essentials for Raphael, the founder of the brand which is fast becoming a cult favourite since its inception in 2018. The medley of modern and iconic styles such as the Riviera tote, Carina bucket bag and Porter holdall highlight the brand’s status as a pioneer of sustainable and chic design.
On sourcing – the company follows a strict ‘made to order’ policy. This is “to reduce waste whilst simultaneously implementing traceability control of all materials sent to recycling such as vegetable tanned leather scraps, plastic, paper and wood” notes Marina.
Selection of suppliers who ethically source materials and carry the necessary certifications is a priority for the brand.For leather products specifically, the designs only use organic tanning or vegetable tanning that comes from FSC certified wood.
It is clear Marina is devoted and passionate about supporting small, local artisans in the surrounding areas of Florence, Italy where the bags are made. “Promoting the local economy and helping to preserve the traditional craftsmanship skills that have passed from generation to generation” is an important measure for the team.
The brand is benefitting from learnings gained through its collaborations with global players. Through its partnership with Swarovski, crystals used on designs are engineered with renewable sources of energy, a certified supply chain and responsibly managed production processes in Austria. All bags that use the crystals as decorative features are Swarovski certified. What’s more – Swarovski works with Marina Raphael to overlook the brand’s entire production process and ensure that the designs are to Swarovski’s ‘clean’ standards of procurement.
The collaboration with Maria Fernanda Hernandez Franco, Head Sustainable projects & Global Communications at LuisaViaRoma has also inspired Marina. “It really got me thinking outside the box, and gave me the idea of incorporating fabrics made of an ecological blend of wool and cashmere.”
The value of biodiversity and importance of bio conservation was instilled into the designer from a young age. She cites influence from her Grandmother, President of the Goulandris Natural History Museum in Athens.
Marina voiced that “Having a brand that respects the environment is something that was extremely important to me from the very beginning.”
The handbag hit list – Sustainable bag edit
This S & S edit features a selection of sustainable bag brands from across the globe working to bring us ethical and enviable army candy. In no particular order:
A_C
A_C praise transparency, “We’re not perfect and we don’t claim to be.” The brand experiments with plant based leathers as well as 100% GOTS certified materials for their linings. They are passionate about being responsible for the afterlife of products and offer buyback programmes, handbag repairs and the option to shop their pre-loved items.
Alienina
Hand made in Italy, 90% of materials used by the Alienina design team are derived from production waste. No two pieces are identical and the string and woven styles are made from 100% organic cotton.
Advene
This New York based brand take enviable bag status to new heights. Advene use best in class traceable leathers from gold standard tanneries under the Leather Working Group, for which there are only 13 in the world. The various designs also experiment with organic hemp, GOTS certified materials as well as natural dye treatments. Every inch of the Advene bags have been considered; the team have designed out plastic fillers that usually appear in bags and use minimal hardware. They have also been engineered with double straps for functionality and versatility. Read more about their production process and carbon neutral facilities here.
Aysha
AYSHA is a black women-owned, CFDA award winning design team that manufacture and assemble bags in New York City. The company philosophy embraces fair treatment of workers, responsible sourcing of materials, upcycling material scraps and producing in small batches.
BEEN London
When it comes to designing with waste, no one does it better than BEEN London. Handcrafted in the capital, their bags experiment with luxury full-grain recycled leather which is certified by Global Recycled Standard. Their best-selling London Fields tote uses recycled polyester zips which are made from single-use plastic bottles. What’s more – the bags are structured from felt padding using discarded company textiles and corporate uniforms from the likes of IKEA and KLM. BEEN London also verify their sustainability credentials with Compare Ethics.
Bottle Top
Bottle Top are famed for their hand crocheted bags that use upcycled metal tabs. The founders Cameron Saul and Oliver Wayman are committed to supporting artisans and funding social projects like health education in Africa. The brand also created the BOTTLETOP FOUNDATION which empowers disadvantaged young people to take control of their lives through health education and vocational training projects.
Cuyana
Never underestimate the power of a structured tote. Cuyana craft their bags in in a woman-owned factory in Turkey from gold certified Leather Working group facilities to ensure the leather is tanned responsibly against measures like traceability, resource consumption, and effluent treatment of workers.
Elizabeth Scarlett
Elizabeth Scarlett’s luxury embroidered pouches, bags and accessories are the perfect item for gifting and making a colourful pop on even the darkest of days. All items are pieces of Elizabeth’s art and as a designer she notes “My aim is always to make timeless, season-less products that stand the test of time and are ready for the wear and tear of busy lives. All our design decisions are led by our customers and community, so we have confidence we are only producing products that we know they love, meaning no excess inventory.” The brand is now transitioning to sourcing certified materials under initiatives such as BCI. “I’m incredibly excited that we are introducing organic and recycled materials to our repertoire this year.” Elizabeth says.
One of my favourite things about the brand is its dedication to charitable endeavours. As a small organisation, they have made a positive impact by raising over £30,000 for the Local Ocean Conservation and donate 2% of all annual sales to the preservation of species.
Elvis & Kresse
When it comes to sustainable bags with purpose, Elvis & Kresse have become famed for rescuing and transforming raw materials into luxury lifestyle accessories. Many of their bags, including the iconic weekend bag are made from fire hoses with military-grade parachute silk and rescued textiles from the Burberry workshop in Yorkshire. In addition to being a B Corp, Elvis & Kresse are living wage employers and pride themselves on their ethical credentials, creating products made to last with the offer of repairs for life. What’s more – Elvis & Kresse donate 50% of the profits from the Fire-hose Collection to The Fire Fighters Charity.
Hereu
Made in Spain, Hereu bags and shoes are created by local artisans and celebrate excellence in craftsmanship. The brand takes inspiration from a Mediterranean heritage and the designs like the Bombom bag are made from supple lambskin, lined with an organic cotton canvas.
Indego Africa
Indego Africa is so much more than a brand. Since 2007, they have championed artisan empowerment which helps transform the lives of women, youth, and refugees across Africa. Their handwoven pieces use natural fibres and materials such as elephant swamp grass. This basket bag also has handles made from Fairtrade certified cotton. Read more here.
IACOBELLA
Made in Italy, IACOBELLA is the brainchild of designer Iacobella Gaetani. These distinctive handwoven styles have no zippers or metal hardware. Instead, they have a unique hand-cut natural quartz crystal and hand-braided leather cords. IACOBELLA is respected in design circles and in 2019 created a bespoke range for Italian power house MISSONI. Their sustainability efforts are noteworthy; since July 2020, the brand’s factory has run on 100% renewable energy. What’s more – the designer’s partnerships with reforestation charity zeroCO2 works to offset their carbon footprint by donating a fruit tree to the families of Guatemalan farmers. You can also view the 100% upcycled collection here.
Kairi London
Kairi have shot on to the scene for their use of vegan plant based and bio leathers. Known for their stylish but seasonless baguettes and colourful purses, the brand makes concerted efforts to minimise waste by using upcycled lining and engaged in reforestation efforts to offset their impact.
Khokho Collection
The Khokho Collection partner with women weavers from the Ntondozi region of eSwatini to provide sustainable opportunities and fair wages in areas of limited economic prospect. This stunning Langa Frame bag in particular is handwoven from locally grown sisal fibre, accompanied with vegetable tanned leather, a hemp canvas and satin pouch.
Lidia May
This sleek and stylish brand works alongside with the Lidia Hope Centre, a non-profit organization working to support over 400 families in the urban slums of Dhaka, Bangladesh. The social commitments of the company support underprivileged women through the Centre’s Embroidery Artisan Training (EAT) program designed by Lidia May. The programme gives women artisans concrete skills to emerge into the skilled labour market.
Marina Raphael
Marina Raphael bags are the ultimate chic and elegant accessory. Made in Italy and responsibly sourced, the brand has implemented a near zero waste policy with strict efforts on upcycling. Their core partnership with Swarovski has helped elevate their sustainable purchasing practices. The brand’s giving pack projects for organisations like Black White Jaguar Tiger highlight how much impact they have had to date.
Mashu
Mashu’s best in class bags are designed in London and made in Greece. The brand have aligned their sustainability strategy to the UN 2030 Sustainable Development Goals and have partnered with blockchain technology provider Provenance for interactive labels to share their supply chain for full transparency. Mashu claim that all of their materials are 100% recyclable at the end of their life. The designs use materials that are certified to the highest standards of Global Recycled Standard (GRS) and Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). They also avoid all chemicals on the Cradle2cradle list of banned substances. My eyes are firmly on the Sophia Emerald, crafted from deadstock duchess satin, vegan leather straps and recycled polyester interiors.
STELAR
Artisans in Bali practice ancient techniques such as bedek and star weaving to create these STELAR bags. Their designs use a unique coding system to verify the origin and attributes of each piece. This Maluku vegan bag is handwoven from natura atta grass and uses linen and cotton lining, both of which are biodegradable.
Ulsto
Ulsto experiment with 100% sustainably harvested cork from Portugal to create practical and playful bags. They are natural water repellent, which means no coating with chemicals. The brand uses felt from 100% recycled PET bottles, and has OEKO-TEX®certified zippers too, highlighting that all elements have been considered. Check out their cork yoga mats too!
If you enjoyed this article, take a look at the sustainable jewellery edit.
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